This is something I planned before I even thought about doing the 3S-GTE swap. Moving a heavy item
like the battery to the front of the car is helpful for the weight distribution, especially when
putting a 3S-GTE into the back!
I got the idea for the position and bracket from Paul Woods' V6, except I believe he mounted his
90 degrees around from where I did mine. The reason I did it this way is that it allows me to still
fit a spare tyre in the frunk.
The bracket was made out of some angle iron I had lying around. This is about the kind of welding
I can do without screwing up! Thick steel, sitting on a bench in front of me, no funny angles - easy!
Once the bracket was made, I welded it in to the corner of the frunk and sprayed some rust
preventive/body deadener on it. This is the kind of welding I can't do without screwing up! I managed
to burn a couple of holes, it's not easy welding thick steel to thin with an arc welded when you suck!
The whole frunk will be resprayed once I've finished the front end mods.
As you can see this wouldn't work so good if you still had air conditioning, as those grommets are where the
aircon hard pipes go through.
In the above picture you can see half of what holds the battery in. It's a thin strip of un-painted
stainless steel with a bolt welded in to the top. The battery clamp bolts to this strip, and the other end
is held down by a conventional threaded bar/hook type thing.
The following shows the battery installed. The bracket looks crooked but that's due to the shadow - it's
actually very straight, promise!
This is the battery clamp upside down with a panel welded on top of it. The panel is for the fuse blocks to
attach to. It's just a piece of thin sheet steel bent over and rivetted to some square tubing. After
painting I put some dense foam on each end to stop the panel touching the contacts if something moves. You
can just make this out in the picture at the top of the page
The earth and the wire running to the starter is 1 gauge (50mm^2 cross section), and they're double sheathed
for extra protection against insulation damage. The short red cables running to the fuses are 4 gauge. The
large fuse is 150 Amp, this is plenty high to make sure it wont blow when trying to start, although I did manage
to blow a 150A fuse on the Celica when the starter motor was stuffed. This high current rating will still
give good protection in the event of a short circuit, as the 1 gauge cable can carry a huge amount of current
and will blow the fuse very quickly.
The battery is an Exide Orbital Gel Cell sealed battery. About 800CCA and 1100CA I believe. Similar to an
Optima (actually I bought it after my Optima Red Top refused to recharge).